How To Wear A Tuxedo – Black Tie Style Tips- Men's Formal Clothing Advice – Tux Fashion Help Hi! I'm Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real MenReal Style.
Today, I'm going to be going over black tiebasics, how to wear a tuxedo.
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Okay, let's talk about black tie.
So the problems out there with black tie aretwofold.
One, we don't wear it very often as men.
There was a time when there were — well, probably not a huge amount of the population, but the gentlemen, black tie was evening wearor something that you transitioned into because usually during the day, you're around horsesand you smelt like — well, you smelt like animals.
You came in and you cleaned up and it wasa dinner outfit.
It was something that you put on to wear todinner.
Even men who had more humble origins, theywould clean up for dinner.
That was a pretty big deal.
Lunch, you would oftentimes — maybe it wasn’tas big, but dinner, you're at home and home was treated as a very — I think for a lotof men, it was a lot of hard work then, and home was treated as a sacred place.
What has happened though is that we wear blacktie much less often than we did even in higher levels of society.
Even though many of us have much greater meansthan our grandfathers or our great grandfathers had, when it comes to black ties, it's justnot something we're familiar with.
So in a man's lifetime, he's maybe going towear a black tie a few times, maybe a handful of times, so the lack of wearing it.
The other problem is that the industry ingeneral has really bastardized — I don't know how else to say this, but they've takenblack tie and they have really taken it in the wrong direction.
I think it was in 1970s that we saw a lotof the rental industry start to bring in a lot of bright colors and tried to grow thatindustry by bringing it into weddings.
Black tie, technically, is evening wear.
So if you're wearing a tuxedo during the dayat a wedding, it's actually technically wrong, but that's a whole another discussion.
The point is that if you go to rent something, you have some type of uniform pushed on you, which is nothing like traditional, classicblack tie.
Okay, so what are the bright spots? What are the good things? Well, the best part is that black tie is aset of rules that if you follow these rules that have been developed over a hundred years, you can pretty much be guaranteed you're going to look good because the best part about blacktie by following these rules is you're going to use a system of lines and silhouette thathas been perfected over a very long period of time.
So you've got two colors, maybe a third oneif you want to bring in a little bit of red pocket square or go with a little bit of awaistcoat that stands out a little bit, but really, you focus on those rules and you'regoing to be guaranteed to look good.
The other thing is that the internet has madeit easier to find resources.
It used to have been that you had to go geta certain book and do a little bit of research and make sure that you have the right book.
Nowadays, there are websites like The BlackTie Guide, my website over at A Tailored Suit, and there are a few other ones out there thatI'll point you to, but really when it comes down to it, you have a lot more resourcesthat you can follow the step by step instructions laid out.
What are those step by step instructions? Okay, I'm going to start with the fabric ofyour tuxedo.
Keep it black.
Now, you can introduce midnight navy.
It's perfectly fine, but I'm assuming thatif you're watching this video, you don't know a whole lot about black tie and tuxedos.
Just go with black.
It's going to be simple and you'll be veryhappy with — that's really what you want.
Any other color, do not go with except, likeI said, midnight navy.
But again, if you're into that, you're a littlebit more advanced.
Once you move from the fabric, let's lookat the jacket.
Make sure to go with peak or shawl lapels.
Do not go with the notch lapels.
Every time I see a tuxedo with notch lapels, it's just not right because notch lapels are a bit more casual.
Peak lapels, shawl lapels, those are specificfor the formal nature of black tie.
The other thing you want to pay attentionto is going to be the vents, so you want to go with no vent if possible.
Double vent is going to be your second choice.
After that, single vent if that's the onlything you can find, but I would say be careful because there are probably going to be otherthings, other issues you may have with the jacket if it's single vent.
The other thing you want to look at is goingto be the pockets.
Make sure that they can be tucked in.
Basically, jutted pockets are what we callthem.
Make sure it's seamless over at the pocket.
Make sure that it's not gaping open.
The other thing is you want to make sure thatit's got a bit of satin on the lapel.
So right here, there should be a satin.
It should be a bit reflective.
You'll see a grosgrain as well, but eitherof those is fine.
You just want to see a bit of reflection there.
Occasionally, I will make a custom-made tuxedothat is plain black that the latest James Bond movie we saw Daniel Craig on — I thinknot latest — Casino Royale.
He had a very black, plain.
I think that looks fine as well.
It's not 100% classic, but you're allowedto change up one thing, I'd say, in black tie.
And so, for that client, I thought that wasa pretty good move.
The other thing with the jacket is pay attentionto the fit.
This is so important.
So many men, when they rent something or theythrow on a rental, the style may be okay, but if the fit is horrible, it's just notgoing to make it.
And if you spend $2000 on a jacket, then youneed to spend another $100 to get it altered to fit you correctly.
It doesn’t matter if it's a Ralph Laurenor if you picked it up at Brooks Brothers.
Make sure that it's tailored to fit you right.
All right, moving on from the jacket, we thengo down and we look at the trousers.
So with the trousers, first thing is you shouldnot be wearing a belt with classic black tie.
You should be either using suspenders or youshould have a tab waistband, and a tab waistband is an adjustable waistband, one that can fityou exactly properly, but what's going to be easier is to go with suspenders or bracesas they're called over in the UK.
This is more traditionally correct and they'regoing to be held up.
They're going to be worn a little bit higher.
Now, the shirt, I'll talk briefly about that, but it should always be white.
You can look for a peak cotton that's goingto have a little bit of a pattern — not really a pattern, but it's going to be the weave.
It's going to be a little bit different there.
Again, you can use studs.
On a traditional, you're just going to havethese holes right here, which you'll put in studs.
It's going to have also on the French cuffsas well.
The collar, let's talk about the collar.
Now, you have the turn-up collar, which isgoing to have a little bit of — like I said, that’s very rare that you're going to seesomething like that.
Most of the time, you're going to see thepoint collar and that is exactly what you're looking for.
You don't want to go with too much of a spread, just a regular turndown collar.
If you get everything right there on the shirt– you don't want to wear a regular white dress shirt and the reason being is that it'susually going to be made from inferior cotton and it's going to be a small detail, but peoplewill be able to tell.
It's going to be using plastic buttons probably.
Occasionally though, I do see a shirt thatdoesn’t use the studs and instead it uses a covered placket right here in the front, and that covered placket underneath there using mother of pearl buttons.
That's an okay substitute.
I think that's fine.
Okay, so we've talked about the shirt.
We've talked about the trousers.
Quick thing on the trousers jumping back, you do not want to have your trousers cuffed.
Cuffed is an informal look, so you want tohave it straight down there at the bottom, no cuff at the bottom of the trousers.
One thing and the biggest mistake I see menmake is that they do not have a waist covering.
So when I say waist covering, I'm talkingabout a cummerbund or I'm talking about a waistcoat, so either of those is going tobe fine.
A waistcoat is different in a vest.
Usually, the V goes deeper and it only hasthree buttons, but the whole point of this waist covering is to help transition the eyeswhenever you're looking up and down a man.
If he happens to leave his jacket unbuttoned, which you shouldn't leave it, you're only going to have one button on a traditionalblack tie jacket, so you always leave that buttoned unless you're seated.
When you're seated, you unbutton and you sitdown.
Your waist covering, make sure that you don'thave fabric just billowing out.
The cummerbund came out of India.
The British brought it back with them, I believe, over 150 years ago.
That right there, it's got a long stored history.
It's going to be less expensive, more common.
Don't go with one of those really bright colors.
Perhaps you can go with a red.
The easy way to remember how to wear thisis remember if you've got a ticket that you could tuck the ticket right in, so you wantthe folds going up.
Harder to find, but I think more appropriateand what looks better, is a waistcoat.
I really like the waistcoat.
You've got to make sure it fits properly though.
And again, the whole thing is it needs tocover as the trousers come up to the shirt.
So if you're somehow dancing, you take thejacket off, no one is going to be able to see that transition from the trouser to theshirt.
Okay, moving on, you want your socks to matchyour trousers.
Your shoes, you're going to go with Oxfordsor patent leather pumps.
I'm not really going to get down the pumplevel because if you've got slippers that are going through tuxedo, you're a bit moreadvanced than most men.
Most men are going to lean towards classicOxfords and there's a difference between Bluchers and Oxfords, so I'm talking about dress shoeshere.
The Oxford, it's a more sleek look.
It's going to have a closed lacing system.
I talk about this in other articles, but justmake sure that you've got a well-polished pair of Oxfords.
You can go with patent leather shoes in thiscase, but if you don't wear it very often — I guess if it's a rental, they may havethat option for you, but go with a very simple, sleek dress shoe.
Okay, so we've talked about the shoes.
The black tie bow, do not wear a necktie.
Now, I know if you're a bit more advanced, you can kind of bend and break this rule.
You see it in Hollywood quite a bit on thered carpet, men trying to wear a long necktie.
I think a classic bow tie, this is the oneoccasion where it's encouraged and it looks great, so go ahead and go for the bow tie.
The key with the bow tie though is to tieit yourself.
Don't go with the clip-on.
A clip-on always looks cheap.
It never looks right.
A bow tie, yes, you'll have to spend maybe5 to 15 minutes going through and tying it, but have fun with it.
It's really going to make or break the outfit.
Okay, so I've talked about the black tie.
I've talked about the shirt.
I've talked about the waist covering.
I've talked about the trousers.
I've talked about the jacket.
Well, I think I hit it.
Those are the basics.
Visit the article.
I go into more detail.
This has been Antonio Centeno with Real MenReal Style.
I'll see you in the next video.