Men's Off-The-Rack Dress Shirts – UnderstandingThe Different Fits Male Clothing Hi! I'm Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real MenReal Style, and today, we're going to be addressing the question, “What shirt manufacturers workbest for different body types?” If you haven't already, please subscribe toour YouTube channel.
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Okay, this is the question that came in, “I'ma relatively built man and it gives me a lot of problems when buying dress shirts.
Pants and jackets, I can pick up at any oldthrift store, but I can't seem to find a good fitted shirt short of dropping $30 per shirtat the tailors.
As a student, I'm looking for a way aroundthis.
I'm wondering if you could do a post on whichshirt manufacturers work best for what builds.
I know they use different models and theyuse different designers, but I just want basically to figure out how this all works.
” Okay, so that was the question that came in.
Unfortunately, I think I know what he wants.
He basically wants a database and for us tohave Calvin Klein or Charles Tyrwhitt or Brooks Brothers, and then to break out exactly whattheir measurements are and how all their sizing works because he is right.
Different companies use different models tomake different types of shirts and of different fits, but the problem with what he's askingis that it's not a steady target.
It's very difficult because every year, theseguys are changing the demographic that they're going after and the target market.
So the demographics are changing in the country, so it used to be in the United States that if you bought a shirt off the rack in the1960s, it was a trimmer build.
In the year 2012, we are a much bigger people, so most of the shirts being manufactured are for bigger people.
So the problem there is that over time, thesedemographics shift, and so that does change.
You'll find that Brooks Brothers is changingthe actual models and the sizing of that.
In addition, these companies oftentimes werebought or they'll decide to change the focus of who they're going after.
So one year, the medium will be towards thistarget demographic.
Two years later, they decided to go afterthis group who goes for a different type of fit.
And so, you can imagine I think building adatabase like this is probably — it sounds like a really cool thing to do, but it's goingto be well beyond the scope of anything I'm going to go after, so I would rather insteadarm you with this basic advice, which I think you can apply and then go out there and findwhat you're looking for.
So you need to remember the general rulesare that depending on the country of origin and where it's manufactured and the pricepoint it is sold at is generally going to give you an idea of what demographic they'regoing after and how it's going to fit.
So if it's made in the United States, it'susually going for a larger man and those are going to be bigger, more generous cuts.
If it's targeting and being sold in Japan, it's going to be for a smaller, more petite cut.
If it's going to be targeted and sold in theUK, then that's going to be for a little bit more fit of a cut, although those guys overthere are getting pretty big, too, so they're getting more towards Americans, but normallythose shirts are going to be a bit more tailored, a bit closer fitting to the body, but thecolors are going to be pretty simple.
Now, if it's made for Italians, it's goingto be made close to the fit of the UK for a little bit smaller of a man, but the colors, they're going to have a lot more vibrant colors and they're going to be louder, so it fitswith the personality.
Again, those are very general, but that givesyou an idea.
If you're looking online, if you want to buysomething made by an Italian manufacturer that's primarily sold in Italy, you may wantto go for that if you want a little bit closer of a fit and you want it with a little bitlouder colors.
Now, price point, the smaller and the lowerthe price point, they're going to try to fit more men.
So if you buy a shirt, a dress shirt at Walmart, you're going to find that that's going to usually be very big and very baggy becausethey are trying to fit a hundred different body types into that dress shirt.
Now, if you go to a high-end men's store andyou see dress shirts being sold from $200 to $500, you can bet that they're going aftera much more set demographic.
It's going to usually be a man that takesbetter care — because he's got more disposable income, he takes better care of his body.
Now, for the man that sent us this question, it sounds like what he needs to do is identify those types, those higher ends, and I don'tknow what his color or fabric tastes are, but let's say he does like a little bit morecolor.
Well, I would say look at clothing that'sItalian.
Identify some Italian brands and then go oneBay or perhaps go into thrift stores, put out a bounty perhaps and ask people to belooking for these particular brands.
Now, there are cities like New York wherethey actually have places where a lot of these brands go into a store and you can go through.
Smaller towns, it's going to be really hard, but then again, you may want to look at some vintage clothing because a lot of the stuffmade 30 to 40 years ago before we were eating all these manufactured, processed food andwe weren't as big as we are — you could tell my opinion on this — but in any case, clothingmade 30 to 40 years ago was usually a bit trimmer.
The last thing I would say, if you're spending$30 to $40 per shirt, it may be worth his time to actually learn to put in darts himself.
They're not very difficult.
You can pick up a book for a couple of dollarsand learn how to do it yourself and save yourself a lot of money.
That's my answer to the “which shirt manufacturer”.
Sorry for those of you that were looking forme to actually break it all out, but that's a huge project.
If you have done this project, let me knowand I'll put a link to you down below, but as far as I have seen, nobody's done this.
This has been Antonio Centeno with Real MenReal Style.
I'll see you in the next video.