Odd Jackets – Sport Coats – Blazers – Men'sSuit Jacket – Menswear Clothing Terminology Hi.
Iím Antonio Centeno, the founder of RealMen Real Style.
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And today I'm going to talking about sportsjackets, blazers, odd jackets.
Whatís the difference? Why do we use all these different terminologyand how can you put it to use in your wardrobe? Okay.
So we used these words over, I see them inthe industry often used interchangeably.
But my understanding and you know, this isup for debate, you know, depending on, you know, what form youíre on, I guess what sideof the pawn youíre on and you know, what camp youíre in.
But Iím going to give you my view.
So take it with a grain of salt but this isbased on of my research, my understanding, my talking with the lot of the experts inthe field.
So the odd jacket.
The term odd jacket simply means any jacketthat is not made to have a particular pair of trousers to go with it.
So a suit is defined as a jacket in a pairedtrousers made from the same fabric.
Odd jackets, by the very name, do not havea matching pair of trousers.
So any jacket out there that does not havea matching pair of trousers, whether it be a blazer of sports jacket, is technicallyan odd jacket.
So thatís an all encompassing word.
You donít see it used very much because itjust sounds odd.
And therefore, Iím not going to talk aboutodd jackets.
And thatís kind of like the overarching word.
But Iím going to talk about the two subsetsof odd jackets.
And thatís the blazer and sport jackets.
And these, in my opinion are very different.
Oh Iíve seen some writers use them interchangeablyand I think that that ñ I think itís wrong.
And the reason ñ because I think the blazeris a much more structured piece, sports jackets are more general and you can even say, a blazeris a sports jacket but Iím not going to go down in that path.
Iím simply going to say that a blazer isa blazer.
Sports jackets, I think they develop afterblazer.
I think like 40 or 50 years later.
And so I look at them as their own pieces.
And they were developed primarily for theman of sport, the man who wanted to still look good but was going to be playing tennis, was going to be going out hunting, and he still wanted a jacket to wear.
So letís talk about blazers.
What makes a blazer unique? Well, one of the first things or youíre goingto notice that they are almost always blue.
Now, blazers can come in red, they can comein green, they can come in other shades of very dark, I think somber colors.
But what youíre going to see is primarily, they are navy blue.
And youíre going to see them in a blue worstedthatís considered by many of the experts, the classic fabric for it to be made from.
But youíll see them in flannel, you go seemthem in hopsack, youíll see them in other, just a regular worsted wool.
So blazers besides being navy blue, they alsohave oftentimes very unique buttons.
So youíll mother of pearl on blazers occasionally.
Youíll see silver.
Youíll see gold buttons.
Youíll see brass buttons.
Youíll see family heirlooms.
So all types of different things used forbuttons on blazers.
But the key is the blazer buttons always standout a bit more.
Although there were some modern men who ñthey donít want to stand out and they particularly choose to go with a very muted button.
The other thing about the blazer is its navalhistory and its association with, I think anything nautical.
So anytime youíre on ñ you go to Anapolisor you know, out to Monterey, California thatís where a blazer — itís going to have a greatfeel to it.
Itís going to be something that ñ it justhas a very strong and very deep history and association with bolts, supposedly from theHMS blazers where it gets its name.
You know, thatís up for debate on that story.
But in any case, I would say thatís whatcategorizes a blazer.
One other thing, blazers also can be double-breasted.
You rarely ever see that.
In fact, Iíve almost never see it in sportsjacket.
But blazers are, I think by definition, abit more formal than sports jackets.
And therefore, youíll see them as double-breasted.
And usually when youíre wearing a blazer, you want to wear a tie.
Now Iím actually wearing a sports jackethere and you may wonder, you know, a lot of it ñ well this looks like a lot like a blazerbut itís actually a sports jacket.
So thatís probably a great transition.
What makes a sports jacket? Well to me a sports jacket is a general termfor pretty much anything that is not a blazer.
So sports jackets have the word sport in them.
And thatís because they were developed mostlyin the 1920s and 30s, whenever men were starting to exercise, more get out and play sportsand they wanted to be gentlemenís sports.
And they wanted a jacket that was made particularlyfor the actual sport.
So we saw this in tennis, moved over intohunting — actually I hunting, itís been aroundÖ Öfor a long time.
There have been jackets like the Norfolk.
And these jackets were actually developedwith their own unique style.
So you know, this jacket doesnít have it, but on the back of some of the hunting jackets, they would actually have a lot of vents.
So the jacket could open up more so that ñyou know, a shooting jacket.
It wouldnít be a restricted if youíre goingbe firing a rifle.
So these jackets enabled you to look likea gentleman and behave like a gentleman but at the same time be a ñ you know, a mobilesportsman and be able to do pretty much what ñ if you think about, what most of us weuse performance gear when weíre out.
You know doing these extreme sports or youknow the tri-athletes, these guys are actually wearing tweet suits.
And tweet is pretty rough.
A lot of people theyíre very careful withtheir wool tweet because they spend a lot of money on it.
But when it comes down to it, a lot of thesesports jacket fabrics were developed to be able to do it, you know, take a rough andtumble.
Thatís why on sports jacket youíll see pocketsor shoulder ñ Iím sorry ñ elbow patches.
Well that is so that you can put the elbowdown on a rougher area and not have to worry about it.
You know, another one on shooting jacketsyouíll see actually a leather patch up here.
You know, all of these actually had a reasonfor being in existence.
So getting ñ letís get to the modern sportsjacket.
The modern sports jacket, youíre going tosee a wide range of fabrics.
And in fact this is a sports jacket simplybecause I got a check pattern in it.
Itís actually a glen check here.
And another thing with sports jackets is theyíregoing to be a little bit less formal.
So youíre going to see ñ I use what is it, a patch pocket on this.
You canít see my bottom but I got, let mesee if I can, yeah, it probably didnít pop out right.
But in any case, use it more ñ use all typesof styles on sports jacket.
So I love sports jacket simply because theyíreless restrictive than suits or blazers and you can do — have all types of fun with them.
I mean look at this really unique lapel overhere.
Itís a little bit of ñ you know, of a sportylook.
I saw this one time in a magazine, you know, from a designer that came up with this years ago and I was like, ìHey, I want to do thison my sports jacket.
î Another thing with sports jackets besidesthe wide range of style, the wide range of fabrics, the fact that they were designedfor sport, I think sports jackets theyíre just overall going to be less formal thanblazers or any other type of you know, trying to match a suit jacket with a pair of jeans.
And so they can go with denim.
And I really like to wear sports jacket withdenim, always sports jacket looks great a pair of odd trousers like corduroy or grayflannels or something to that extent.
So hopefully that clarifies things again.
Youíve got odd jackets, youíve got blazers, youíve got sports jackets and thatís how theyíre all sort of related.
Both blazers and sports jackets are odd jackets.
Blazers are not necessarily, you know, somepeople argue but I think theyíre separate because they came about a different time periods.
Hopefully, I did not confuse you.
If I did, I guess you can send me an emailand Iíll either redo theÖ.