Pick Stitching – A Sign Of Quality Men's Suits_Mens Clothing Build – Suit Fabric – Fashion Advice Hi.
I'm Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real MenReal Style.
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Today I'm going to be talking about suit details.
And can you tell quality by the little bitof stitching on the lapels and near the button holes? And this was a question asked of me.
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The question I received.
I read most of the seven deadly style sins.
Thatís my free eBook, by the way.
Itís been very helpful.
The only questions I still have at this timeare, is stitching around the edges of the lapel a sign of visual quality when it comesto a jacket? Whether itís cheap or expensive or this isjust a preference.
Number two, is stitching that appears aroundthe buttons of the jacket cuffs that makes it look like thereís actual button holesfor all four buttons a sign of a quality jacket.
So, what the gentleman asks specifically, no, those are not signs of a quality jacket.
They are also not signs of a bad quality jacket.
Theyíre just small signs.
And itís kind of like whenever youíre lookingat quality clothing, thereís not one factor that it is normally going to determine ifitís a going a good quality jacket.
There are actually many factors.
And if it violates one of those factors, itcould immediately be discounted as a poor quality.
I mean, if a jacket is made from a hundredpercent polyester, then most of the time Iím going to discount that as a low quality jacket.
However, perhaps youíre going for a performancejacket.
Iíve seen one out there which is designedspecifically to be right in dawn and to behave and crumple it up and ñ for it to pop rightback.
So, in that case, I guess it is a qualityjacket because thatís what the people looking to put this together were going for.
But in most cases, the little things likethose ñ heís talking about the pick stitching right here on the jacket lapels.
And heís also talking about some of the coloring, the stitching around the button holes.
And I donít know if you can see this.
Weíll try to zoom in.
But I actually have got my jacket, so itísgot working button holes.
Now, working button holes are normally a signof quality because it means that the jacket sleeve length can just barely be adjusted.
It can be adjusted but not much.
And so, it normally signals that this jacketsleeve was made for the man.
It was actually made to his size.
It wasnít bought off the rack and then adjustit.
And usually, if you buy a jacket off the rack, you can just adjust the sleeves up to two inches sometimes.
But with this jacket, the most you would beable to adjust that, I would say, maybe half an inch, anything more than three inches isgoing to lose some of the proportions and not look right.
So in that case, working button holes areoften a sign of quality, but theyíre not a determining factor because you can get something.
And quality, again, is very subjective.
You can have somebody on the side of the rowwho makes handmade suits that range in the $4, 000 range.
And he will say a made-to-measure suit thatperhaps only cost, you know, $400 to $500.
Thatís not only a sign of quality.
It is one sign though.
The other signs are going to be, you know, the fit of the jacket.
Does it actually fit to wear? Is it designed for his body type? And again, this is, you know, if the jacketis made for the person.
Another thing is going to be the fabric.
What is the quality of the fabric? And this is something thatís hard for a lotof men to be able to determine.
You can tell a really bad fabric from a goodfabric.
But to be able to tell a good fabric froma great fabric, that requires a trained eye, and oftentimes, youíre going to have to sendit to a lab.
Well, they will actually do a chemical andburn test to determine the percentage makeup of wool versus polyester versus other blendsthat they can put in there.
But ñ so when it comes to fabric, you normallywant to go for at least something is going to be in the super 100s.
I think thatís a good quality fabric.
Although, you know, super 120, super 130, super 140s, these super numbers to even make it more confusing, there isnít a set system.
So, every company, one company super 120, can equal another company super 130.
They just ñ it doesnít mesh exactly.
The other thing is going to be built.
And this is ñ so if I look at a jacket, Iílllook at the shoulders, maybe ñ I donít really do this ñ well, if Iím looking somethingat the store.
But if I have the jacket and I have permission, I can cut it open and I can look at the inside of the jacket and I can look at where itíshand-sewn, if itís got a floating canvas, if it has a half canvas, if it has a lot ofmachine work, has it been fused on the inside.
So there are all these things that I can lookat as a professional to determine the high level of the quality of the jacket.
But most people are not going to be able todo this.
So how are you going to be able to determineif this is a quality jacket? One, look at whoís selling you the jacket.
So, you want to trust the person that youírebuying from.
And thatís the great thing about most boxstores, is it for them, itís not worth ripping you off and selling you something low, youknow.
Well, they ñ youíre often going to get whatyou pay for, but realize that, okay, if you go to Nordstrom, you go to Neiman Marcus.
Youíre going to get a different level ofquality than if you shop for a suit or a jacket at Sears.
Just ñ they buy from different people, wholedifferent world.
And so, in that case, youíre spending moremoney, youíre getting higher quality.
But if you go to a menís wear store, a specificone, you know, the Menís Wearhouse, JoS A.
Banks, those are entry level.
There are usually most medium-sized towns.
They have actually a specialty men store andmaybe itís owned by a local merchant.
Those are where youíre going to find evenbetter quality.
And often, I think get a better deal.
The best deal that you can find in my opinionis travelling to either London, Milan, Hong Kong or Bangkok.
And finding a great tailor that you can workwith, who can build you something from scratch.
Now, Bangkok, Hong Kong, youíre going tohave to be much more careful.
But London, Milan, youíre going to have alot more ñ youíre going to have a lot more play.
You know, you can trust many of the guys thereversus in Bangkok and Hong Kong.
Youíve got to be careful.
They will just ñ they will cheap the shirtright off your back.
But ñ okay.
So, to answer the question again, these littledetails are not determining factors of quality.
Quality is much ñ thereís much more to it.
And so, I wish I could give you a, you know, give you an easy answer on that, but thatís the best I can do.
This has been Antonio Centeno with Real MenReal Style.